Imagine having a synthetic turf area for multiple dogs to roll around on that remains green, plush, healthy, and smelling good. A place where peace of mind because you can rely on the area’s surface to service multiple dogs. A synthetic turf surface that is able to be cleaned, disinfected, flushed, and dried within an hour. This month, Ask JW will take you on a trip to California to visit a dog boarding facility that had little space, many dogs, and a desperate need for landscaping help.

I received a call from the owner of a boarding facility in Agoura Hills, California, asking for assistance on designing a pet system that would actually work. Since I was in California at the time, I told her I would stop by and take a look at her facility.

The facility was set up quite nicely. The outside boarding area was part of a rear parking lot that consisted of three areas that were fenced in with vinyl fencing and gates. The three areas separate dogs for cleaning and playtime, as well as separating them by size.

The surface of the fenced areas was tiles of synthetic turf adhered on a thin plastic frame with ¼” dimples. These turf tiles, as I would call them, did not have enough elevation above the asphalt’s surface, which caused the dog feces to end up in a “slurry”. This slurry rested upon the asphalt and never exited the area. I noticed that the existing asphalt didn’t have much slope to it and seemed to be the reason for her frustrations of combating the smell. We discussed surveying the existing elevations to see how to create a plan where “flushing” the turf could be accomplished.

The sludge and slurry of animal feces rested beneath the turf tiles, which created an unhealthy environment for the dogs and the employees. At this point, there wasn’t any drainage going on, and the smell had me running to my truck and grabbing my surveying equipment.

When the turf tiles were removed, I noticed trenches that had been cut into the asphalt. The last contractor saw-cut trenches in the asphalt, excavated it, removed 8 inches of soil, then replaced it with ¾” rock aggregate thinking it would help with drainage.

I shot the existing elevations and realized the entire boarding area had minimal slope which was the reason for the sludge and slurry build-up.

I sat with the owner and hand-sketched a drawing/design (above) that I felt was needed for the entire area. Unfortunately, the areas did not have enough slope for proper flushing of the synthetic turf.  I recommended that she slope the entire area back toward the building and into a channel drain. This design would include a new channel drain, newly placed concrete, concrete densifier, composite nailer boards, AirDrain grid, Envirofill, and TurFresh enzyme. Luckily, there was an existing drain that was part of an old site plan that we were able to locate and use. A contractor was chosen, and off to the races we went.

After the sludge and slurry was all scraped off the asphalt, string lines were set to new elevations. The new elevations caused the removal of the asphalt to achieve a 6” thick concrete pour. This worked out great since we were now able to remove all the concrete curbing that was contributing to the drainage problems.

The contractor aggressively worked on removing the asphalt and prepared the sub-base for the newly placed concrete.

Luckily, an old site plan showed an exit drain that we were able to uncover. Snaking the existing drain and running a water test was crucial in making sure the drainpipe was clear.

I recommend using a 1” thick plastic poly/composite nailer board for securing all exterior turf edges. Do not use wood for nailer boards. Wood dries up and cracks over time. SGW Polyboard comes in 1″ x 4″ x 20′. It can be cut down to any length to be laid flat when used for concrete, asphalt, balconies, mezzanines, and rooftops installations. This 1” thick material works great for incorporating AirDrain. Polyboard is a remarkable alternative to today’s synthetic turf nailer board products. SGW Polyboard can be drilled into without splitting and cut without splintering.

Tools needed to secure polyboard laid flat to concrete, asphalt, balconies, mezzanines, and rooftop surfaces:

✓ SGW POLYBOARD

✓ CHALKLINE

✓ DRILL & 3/8” bit

✓ ELECTRIC

✓ SUPERSEAM PRO 444

✓ STAPLE GUN/PLENTY OF ¼” x 1” CROWN STAPLES

1. Mark out the exterior edge of the desired area to be installed.
2. Take a chalk line, and snap the exterior edge onto the surface.
3. Cut the nailer board to length to fit the exterior edge, with the nailer board sitting on the inside edge of the chalk line. Place the nailer board flat on the chalk line to ensure all sections are cut correctly.
4. When all the exterior nailer boards are cut into place, now is the time to cut openings for the escape of water and fluids if needed. Some installations may not need the escapechannels. An electric router works fast and clean! I recommend placing channels/holes at 3 to 6 inches on center to allow water and fluids to escape out and from under the installation.
5. Prior to adhering the nailer board to the surface, I recommend drilling 3/8” holes every 12 inches on center to allow the adhesive to escape during compression. This will lock in the two surfaces for a strong bond.You cannot drill or nail nailer boards to rooftops, balconies, and mezzanine surfaces. This will damage the surface and may cause the surface to leak below.When securing the nailer board to these types of surfaces, I recommend placing Superseam adhesive between the nailer board and the surface you are adhering. Superseam adhesives are the strongest in the industry and will bond to most surfaces, including concrete and asphalt. Make sure the surface is clean of all dirt and debris. Remember, the system will not be completely secure until infill placement is completed. Respect wind lift in all areas.
6. When securing nailer boards flat on concrete or asphalt, I recommend drilling and securing with a tapered head concrete anchor or Red Head. Using Superseam adhesives along with anchors will ensure a strong bond, which will assist in thermal expansion.
7. When the nailer boards are secure and in place, it is the start of the AirDrain placement.
8. When the nailer board and AirDrain installation are complete, place the synthetic turf over the AirDrain.
9. Overlap and tuck the turf to the outside 1 inch of the nailerboard and staple every 2 inches on center. Make sure you keep the turf stretched tightly.

(1) AirDrain pallet covers approximately 798sqft.AirDrain works great over concrete, asphalt, or rooftops.  It is a great solution for commercial kennels, pet day care centers, and residences. If you have kennels that need to be installed over concrete flooring, it provides the ultimate in odor control and drainage. AirDrain separates the artificial grass from the concrete and directs the waste to a predetermined drainage area, reducing odors and preventing buildup of possible bacteria.

All installations must start in the top left corner of the field and work left to right in order to be installed properly. 

Orientate the AirDrain GeoCell materials with the integral indicator tab to the panel’s bottom left corner (painted yellow). Install the AirDrain units by placing units with the connectors and platforms up, creating a flat surface for the profile above. If the male connectors do not fall or drop into the female connectors, then the orientation is incorrect.

AirDrain grids are very easy to install as long as you keep the YELLOW tabs to the bottom left… it’s that easy.

As you can see, we removed the top grates from the channel drain prior to placing the AirDrain grid so that the opening can withstand an overload of flushing.

When the AirDrain grids are installed and secure, clean off any debris on the surface and under the grids prior to installing the Pet Turf.

When placing 100% permeable Pet Turf synthetic turf on top of AirDrain over concrete, it is crucial for the turf to be kicked/stretched tightly and secured.

Placing infill bags on top of sections of turf will prevent the turf from moving, especially if it is hot outside.

I recommend placing Superseam Pro 444 adhesive along with ¼” crown staples to secure the turf to the nailerboard.

ynthetic turf is merely a plastic. It is very easy to keep clean and maintain as long as you have drainage and aeration. When installing commercial facilities, it is important to create allowable space between the synthetic turf and surfaces which harbor bacteria.

JW
I look forward to seeing you next month where l will teach you how to combat hard water deposits on synthetic turf fibers!

For more information regarding cutting around playground poles or would like to schedule a training or webinar, please contact J.W.: askjw@sgwcorp.com or call 888.846.3598

Suggestions for the use of ASK JW installation techniques are solely at the end users’ discretion; however, the user should determine suitability for the intended use by his/her own evaluation. Because the use of the materials is beyond our control, neither ASK JW nor SGW shall be liable for the outcome of any use of said materials including any injury, loss, or damage, direct or consequential, arising out of the use or inability to use these techniques and products.